Súbor s prehľadom takmer tisíc nazbieraných údajov a cien si môžete vo formáte XLS prezrieť a stiahnuť tu: www.cestujemespolu.com/files/kolko_stoji_zivot_v_europe_cestujemespolu.xls

A čo zaujímavé sa v ňom dozviete? Tak napríklad, vedeli ste, že?

• …najdrahší biely chleba (500 g, 2,90 eur) je v Andore?
• …najlacnejších 1 kg pomarančov (0,76 eur) kúpite v Aténach?
• …najlacnejšie víno (stredná trieda, 3,24 eur) kúpite v Belehrade?
• …najdrahší McMeal v McDonalds (11,92 eur), Coca Colu v reštaurácii (3,83 eur) či vajíčka (4,71 eur/12 ks), jablká (3,60 eur/kg), banány (2,98 eur/kg) a cibuľu (2,52 eur/kg) kúpite v Berne?
• …najlacnejšie nástupné do taxi (0,31 eur) je v Bukurešti?
• …najdrahšie rajčiny (3,83 eur/kg) kúpite v Kodani?
• …najlacnejšie domáce pivo (0,52 eur) či capuccino (0,74 eur) si dáte v Kyjeve spolu s najlacnejším jednosmerným lístkom na lokálnu dopravu (0,15 eur)?
• …najdrahší balíček cigariet Marlboro (11,48 eur) je v Londýne a rovnako je tu najdrahší aj priemerne jeden prejdený kilometer v taxi (3,83 eur)?
• …najlacnejšie vajíčka (0,92 eur/12 ks) zoženiete v Minsku?
• …najdrahší prenájom trojizbového bytu v centre je v Monaku (16 500 eur)?
• …najlacnejšie banány (0,91 eur/kg) a benzín (0,48 eur/l) majú v Moskve?
• …najdrahšie domáce pivo v reštaurácii (8,65 eur) či vodu v reštaurácii (2,70 eur) nájdete v Osle?
• …najdrahšie nástupné do taxíku (10,81 eur) je taktiež v Osle?
• …najlacnejší McMeal v McDonalds (3 eurá) je v Podgorici?
• …priemerne najdrahšie víno (stredná trieda, 17,63 eur) je v Reykjaviku?
• …najlacnejšie jedlo v reštaurácii (3,58 eur) a prenájom 3-izbového bytu v centre (384,99 eur) je v Sarajeve?
• …najdrahší jednosmerný lístok na lokálnu dopravu (3,89 eur) je v Štockholme?
• …najlacnejšie mlieko v obchode (0,51 eur/l) kúpite v Talline?
• …najlacnejšie rajčiny (0,63 eur/kg) sú v Tirane?

Údaje sú platné k 9.6.2016, zdroj dát: verejne dostupná databáza numbeo.com

The post Koľko stojí život v Európe? appeared first on Cestovateľský blog.

This year we decided to go to Albania. When I tell people where we´re going, some of them react the same way as they did when I told them I was going to Romania. It seems like we´re just not able to get rid of our prejudices when it comes to some countries. As usual, their fears are absolutely unfounded. In the end of the day, it´s three of us going and I´m sure this trip will be just a pure delight.

The “Iron butt” award

We want to get through the country of never ending corn fields as fast as possible. After buying our toll stickers, we are taking the M1 towards Budapest and then we are going south on the M5 towards Mohacs. We get to the back road number 7 and pass through Croatian town of Osijek.  After tens of kilometres on the Hungarian highway we all deserved the “iron butt” award. I´m lucky to have a big bike since I can sit on the back seat from time to time and pretend that I am only a guest passenger. The only thing I’m missing is autopilot.

Road number 7 leads us to the borders with Bosnia and Herzegovina near Slavonski Samac. We aim on getting as close to Sarajevo as possible, that would be around 750km. But if we can´t do that, we will be more than happy to spend night in Zenica (640km). One of my fellow-travellers has a friend (Enes) living in Zenica, they want to see each other so we agree to stop there. We´ve done more than enough kilometres today and our butts can vouch for it. The only thing we want now is some good food, beer and a comfortable bed. It doesn´t take long and we´re sorting out some accommodation and plans for the evening. The hotel International is some sort of time travel machine, but there isn´t much to think about; the hotel is situated in the centre of Zenica and our bikes are parked in an underground garage so we´re just going to stay here. After a refreshing shower we change and meet Enes who is already waiting for us. He takes us to a small family run restaurant. It´s an amazing experience. The restaurant consist more or less of few plastic tables and chairs, but the food is amazing. It was only later that I realized that I didn´t even take any photos of the night. Since that fateful night, the local drink kokta (similar to Slovakian Kofola) has become our faithful companion on every journey through the former Yugoslavian countries.

We talked to Enest about the conflict that arose when the former state of Yugoslavia was divided, and about the remaining tensions between temperamental religious groups. Even in 2014, you can still hear about kidnappings and murders happening in some regions. It´s really interesting to hear the opinion from somebody who experienced it all and still lives in the same area.

 A bit 1984 but also 10 000 BC?

Despite the few beers that cultivated in a postponed bedtime, we wake up quite refreshed and are straight  into a lecture on how it used to be in hotels long, long ago, in times not many people remember anymore. The waiter is a boss here and if he is busy, you can wait for your breakfast for a long while. In the end we are able to order coffee and later we ordered expresso. A bit catastrophic but we handle everything with a smile. No point in complaining and spoiling our holiday. In the end of the day, we are here for an experience and we are getting one alright. The only thing reminding us that we hadn’t actually travelled back in time and found ourselves in 1984, was the computer dating from 1999 and an option to pay with credit card.

We get on our bikes and head towards Visoko to see the ancient pyramids, which are allegedly older than those in Egypt.  We get there in less than half an hour. Getting to the pyramids turns out a bit tricky, but in the end they are here, overlooking the town. Due to the traffic ban and the scorching weather we didn´t go to the very top, plus we didn´t fancy climbing the steep slope in our bike gear. It wasn´t only the steepness of the slope which made us reconsider the climb but also the thick vegetation which has grown there for past 12,000 years. The pyramid is about 220 meters tall, approximately one third taller than the Cheops pyramid. More pyramids have been discovered here in the past few years but some scientists dispute these findings.

We are back on our bikes heading towards Sarajevo. When we get there we leave our bikes on a private parking lot. I feel bit anxious as soon as we get changed and leave our bike gear in the trunks. I have to admit nothing bad happened and nobody touched our things, or helmets. I consider 15 euros for three parking spaces a very good deal, when you take into consideration that we spent approximately 3 hours in the city.

We walked towards Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. It was a really lovely walk with an even more pleasant lunch in the old part of Sarajevo. We stopped on the bridge where Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and initiated the beginning of WW I. It´s nice to see how past and present blend in this place.

I remember this city because of the Winter Olympic Games, which is probably the first one I remember as a child. I was taken aback by the setting of the main stadium; it was placed right next to the cemetery, which at that time, I found it very disrespectful towards all sportsmen.

I was thinking about going to see the bob sledge tracks but I saw the photos on the internet and they were in terrible condition, so we decided not to waste our precious time. We jumped on our bikes and carried on to Montenegro. We planned to cross borders and find some accommodation. It was approx. 120km to Plužine, which is not too much considering we only did 75km so far.

The Border control was amazing. It reminded us of how we used to travel before the Schengen Agreement. Long queues of “smiling” custom officers. But since it was quite late afternoon by then, it wasn´t too bad. We reached river Piva at 7:30pm and we got to the lake Piva in no time. We started to look for some accommodation there which wasn´t that easy. In the end, we managed to find a small room with a shared toilet. But for 30 euros for 3 people, who cares. We had dinner in Zvonovo and started to plan the next day.

Our dear Durmitor…

We woke up in the morning and started our day as early as 8 pm. We decided to get some breakfast on the way which lead to the decision to go to Durmitor. The turning into Durmitor looks bit ominous, you ride towards some kind of hole or cave, which seems half buried under soil and stones. Never mind the first impression, the ride on the road P14 is absolutely amazing. At first you have to go up by serpentine roads and then you ride on tableland. The countryside and wilderness around us reminded me of Norway. It´s only about 47km but I can assure you that you will stop a few times. We found a small little restaurant and had some brunch. Ham bagels and coffee at 10:30am.

We carried on through Žbaljak to the river Tare and the bridge Durdevica. This 365 meter long bridge was built between 1938 and 1940 while this area was still part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. At the time this bridge was considered the biggest concrete construction for automobile transport in Europe. During the 2^nd World War, only a few months after it was finished, local guerrillas blew the middle arch of the bridge to stop the advancing Italian army. It was the Italian army that had the bridge under control during the war. The damage was repaired in 1946 soon after the war ended. The bridge has a nice view of the local attraction; a Zip Line going above the canyon of the river Tara, at that time the longest one in the world.

After this beautiful ride we carried on towards Mojkovac. We wanted to get to Albania. It was about 177km, app. 3h ride, to the Albanian town of Koplik. Half way to Koplik we stopped at Morača Monastery. Morača Monastery belongs to the Serbian Orthodox Church and was established in 1252 A.D.. The Surrounding of this monastery are well kept and beautiful. Nowadays Morača Monastery is an important Montenegrin historical and religious monument which is full of tourists all year round.

We rerouted a bit and decided to visit Ostrog Monastery. This building is bit younger than Morača. It was built in the 17^th century. The Monastery is situated against an almost vertical background, high up in the large rocks, it is a popular pilgrimage place for many Serbians. This place is very busy in the summer and visitors have to wait in long queues to get in. We came during mass so we couldn´t get in and we didn´t have time to wait since it was already 6pm. Having considered the time, amount of people and the stuffy weather, we decided to carry on to our final destination; Koplik.

By the time we got to Koplik and found some accommodation it was already the evening. I´m sure you won´t know this hotel since its name was missing the last word “Inn”. The Hotel Holiday. Having ridden through the town earlier we didn´t even bother to go there in the evening. We dumped our stuff in our rooms and went downstairs to taste the local beer. This accommodation was bit more expensive at 50 euros including breakfast and a nice room with air condition which was working, I would say, too well.

If we didn´t want to freeze to death we had to turn it off. We also had no idea that the hotel restaurant would want to show off the strength of their aircon as well. Sometimes I find fans much more suitable and the thing is we all woke up the next morning with a cold, cough and sore throats. We didn´t pick Koplik as our destination by accident. We wanted to be as close as possible to Theth National Park. When we were still at home, I planned to do Theth and another ride nearby. I couldn´t see the reason why we wouldn´t manage it in one day.

Finally Albania -followed straight away by trial by fire

First thing in the morning we go to town and after a few wrong turns we finally got out. We are heading towards Teth, it is the first route of the day. 140 km (at the moment even google maps tell you it´s a five hours ride, but when we were planning it in 2014 google was saying 1 hour 45 minutes) Maybe it learnt from our mobile data. We stopped in one of the last little towns before entering the mountains to top up our water supplies. I can tell you now, that it was one of the best decisions we´ve ever made. At the end of the day, we were planning on going for a two hour ride. It has been boiling since we left home and we didn´t want to underestimate the importance of drinking enough water in this kind of weather.

After first 41km we started having our first doubts. I have to say that I had checked all the recommendations for this journey before we started, so I told myself that everything was fine and that they were only maintaining the road, since we´ve just done about 6km on really badly dug up road. We even saw machinery and later on we found brand new tarmac.

This is where the fun begins. It was 11am and this was our view.

We´ve got here after 17km and approximately an hour long ride, so far this wasn´t fun at all. Lots of descending serpentine roads covered with a thick bed of gravel. Our bikes were sliding from one side of the road to the other and we were doing the same. We had to dodge a few cars and more than once we had to break all the way while taking the turn and then get off our bikes and help whoever needed to be pushed out of the gravel. My bike was facing down, wheel buried deep in gravel. I couldn´t go any further and I couldn´t turn either. I wasn´t able to use my side stand at all. I don´t have to tell you that one can´t push the 300kg bugger (I´m talking about the bike here) up the slope while trying to keep balance, hold the hand break etc. But now I´m thinking, maybe Chuck Norris would manage it with one hand behind his back.

The next stop was the breaking point and we decided not to turn around but carry on. We were certain that we had already passed through the worst of it. The road ahead of us looked like a mere Dakar special. Only after few kilometres did we realized that we would have to go back because the road we were looking at wasn´t the right one, it was a dead end. Actually, it wasn´t, but we would have to ford the river to be able to carry on. You can´t mess up with one´s comfort really. None of us really wanted to have a little splash in the cold river despite the fact that it was 30 degrees outside. Once we were on the right road, I got the feeling we were on some kind of mountain arterial road. Lots of tourists and walkers but no cars at all. 28 km later we got to the small bridge where a group of boys were gaily jumping into the freezing cold water.

We decided it was a good sign as at least, now we knew we weren´t lost to the world, and that other people lived here. We posed the same question to whoever we found, we asked them whether this was a right way to Kir. Most of them responded with a blank expression and a shrug.

We got this far and then it all went astray. We were a whole 2300 meters from the bridge and we all were at the verge of a mental breakdown. Each of us dealt with it in our own way. A few times we had to pick up Paťo´s bike. If he ran into a big hole his main stand got caught and his engine turned off, which always ended up with him falling down. I didn´t envy them at all. Ivo rode on really wild legs without ABS. They did every climb on their gearbox since it really wasn´t doable on a second transmission (for the first time in my life, and hopefully not the last, I truly appreciated having an enduro gearbox and short first transmission). At this point we´ve already done 86 km from Koplik and it was 15:39 and approximately 35 degrees outside. And if that wasn´t enough, we´ve decided to hold our bikes on downhill turnings. We´ve only had few fitness bars for lunch since there was nowhere to eat out on the road. It was approximately 28,4 km to the nearest tarmac from this point but that time we had no idea.

We considered it a good sign when a big van appeared in front of us. We were actually wondering whether it would be possible, and how much it would cost to get a driver to take us and our bikes to the nearest tarmac. Later on we had an even better idea; how much could it be to get us away from here with a helicopter? This kind of idea tells you a lot about my mental state at that time.

Oh, I would almost forget about our Kir. 13 km later we actually found it. Three old cottages and one church. From Kir it was only 13 more kilometres. This part of the road was bit better. We were met by three big lorries and a car full of nuns which missed us just by few centimetres, and I actually think they just caught my friend´s trunk.

The end of our journey was just fabulous. It shows you how fatigue can influence your vison and thinking. In front of me I saw Ivo who crossed quite a big puddle which he couldn´t get around. My thinking was: whatever, I´ve done 80km, I´m going to do these 20m and if not they would just pick me up and pull me out. We´ve all crossed the puddle without any problems but I still couldn´t understand why Ivo stopped and why he has been smiling at me. Only when I overrun him, put my foot and stand down on tarmac, it came to me. Finally there was the end to our torture. I haven´t seen the tarmac I was just standing on. After those terrible 80km I just couldn´t see further than 10m ahead of my bike.

Just so you understand how bad it was, here is few photos of the local road and I´m adding a few videos as well. For us, who do not normally ride enduro, let alone on big bikes, it was a truly mental experience. Every time we mention it now, we have to have a laugh. We are laughing now but we really didn´t laugh then 🙂

We´ve rode to the closest restaurant (15km) faster than light. That´s how it felt at least after those previous torturous kilometres. We´ve had a good dinner and a good laugh.

We checked in into the Bar Restorant Hotel Marina (50 euros) at 21:00 and we started to plan our route for the next day. Never mind, it was supposed to be done this afternoon, in the end of the day we are very flexible travellers 🙂

Albania, trial by fire 2, alias head roasted in helmet

Breakfast was really nice, including a local cheese and homemade jam served by the waiter and owner in the form of one person who spoke fluent English.

We´ve started our pre-planned route; around the lake Drin and then back to the mountains and the Fierza Reservoir. Some crazy people have apparently done this route straight through the mountains, having experienced yesterday’s journey we didn´t even consider this as an option. It was a truly beautiful road, a lovely view of the mountains, hills and the lake. The only thing bothering us was the uninterrupted merciless heat.

We had a lunch in the hotel Alpin. We didn´t expect the owner having little private zoo there; two bears, few deer and many other animals. Later we passed the Albanian Hoover Dam.

The roads were in quite a good condition. You could see the signs of repairs here and there, but after yesterday´s grid and stone it was actually great pleasure to ride on a road like this. At around 1pm the heat started to be unbearable. At 14:23 it was already 38 degrees. An unzipped jacket and standing up on the bike didn´t really help anymore. We had to stop quite often and look for some shade. In a country without trees, shade was almost a miracle, so when we finally found some we stopped and drank and drank and drank. It was water at this time. We behaved very ecologically though and didn´t really pee that much. Our kidneys had a brief encounter with some of that water only about late evening, when the temperature dropped to a nice 28 – 30 degrees.

We got to the end of the lake and ended in city Kukes just before 6pm. There we decided to get on the highway and head to the coastal town of Lezhe.

Our first few minutes on the highway tasted like cows. Why cows? Just imagine that you hear your friend saying “watch out, there are cows on the road”, at first, you don´t really think you should watch out for real cows. “What the hell would real cows be doing on the highway?!” Well, crossing it, obviously.

We´ve started to look out for some accommodation for the night. Who would think it would be this difficult at the peak of the season? At the end we found some on the beach. Signs directed us towards a place we assumed nothing could be built anymore. The driveway was totally battered but cars went there anyway. We weren’t really impressed by the pack of angry dogs that welcomed us, but the accommodation in Hotel Brilant was actually really nice. A lovely dinner and a well-deserved rest. We did some swimming in the sea (those who know me also know that I don´t do this very often, but this was very nice. The sea was warm and most importantly wet.

Lack of enthusiasm and fatigue are also elements of our trips

In the morning, nobody really wanted to get back on their bike. The previous two days were really tiring. We left the hotel at around 11am. We knew we had to start heading back home. We didn´t have time for Tirana or other parts of Albania anymore. So we have started our journey back home.

The plan was to stop somewhere near the Bay of Kotor in the evening. We didn´t want to head back directly but we didn´t really want to follow the costal road either. We stopped in Sveti Stefan, a little village situated on the small island connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. It takes its namesake from the church situated at the highest point of the island. In the sixties this island became one of the most popular and luxurious holiday destinations in the region.

In Budva we turned right and headed inland. We wanted to go through Lovcen National Park so we turned towards Cetinje. We wanted to ride to Kotor on those crazy zigzag roads we could see from the town. The view from there is really amazing from whichever part of the road you find yourself. We were entering Kotor at sunset, yet it was quite difficult to get an opportunity to take photos.

We found accommodation in a small house. The owner was in someway connected with Slovakia and the Czech Republic. In the morning we were offered tea and coffee J But again, we had to search for this accommodation a bit longer than we would out of summer season. The house was near the sea, so if we wanted we could go for a little swim. We had a dinner in lovely restaurant called Stari Mlini; it was way too romantic for bikers J but we really couldn´t find anything else.

Our dear Durmitor on the way back and lovely shower in the end

The next day we decided that it would be interesting to go through Durmitor again, but this time from a different direction. That´s how we came up with this route, which we also did in the end. Above Risan we chose the road with the most bends, which was fun. Lots of crazy jumps and at one point one side of the road was actually missing! Sometimes we came across brushes and little trees growing in the middle of the road. I´m sure it´s so neglected due to the war (we came across few empty houses) and also because of the new road with several tunnels which made this town more accessible. We were wandering through these little side roads as much as we could, and then we headed towards the town of Niksic that we´d seen before. Before you enter the town you get the chance to enjoy a beautiful view at the Slansko Lake.

We had lunch before we hit Durmitor in a little shepherd’s hut called Jatar. Jatar is situated
300 – 400m from the main road. It serves very nice food but be careful with the door handle when you go to the toilet; I almost locked myself inside. J

We were crossing Durmitor at around 13:00 and enjoyed a very nice ride. Mostly because we knew what to expect this time. We enjoyed the ride despite the fact that we were threaten by rain and in the end we had to pull out the waterproof gear.

After Durmitor we came back to the Lake Piva and had a look at it during the day.

We came to the borders. It was a Friday afternoon and it was very hot, but the queue was moving quite fast. Do you remember those queues? It definitely refreshed our memories. I have to say that all the checks were really quick and just a plain formality. It was Friday and now we could actually see the road so we were going quite quickly. Ideally we wanted to end the day somewhere near Belgrade and from there to go straight home.

We ended up somewhere, not entirely voluntarily I must say. We almost didn´t noticed that we were crossing the borders between Bosnia, Herzegovina and Serbia. We were crossing the border in Vardiste. On our way to Belgrade we were intensely watching the movement of the clouds above us. I said to the boys: “It won´t catch up with us.” I shouldn´t have said that. It caught up with us much faster that I thought it would, and it wasn´t just a regular rain but a proper downpour. I haven´t had so much water poured over me for a long long time. By the time we turned and got back to the hotel we had considered before, we were completely drenched. We parked under the shelter which was transformed into a waterfall. It had good drainage but there isn´t enough drainage in the world that would be able to actually cope with such an amount of water. During the night we left all our clothes to dry, and we would carry on with our journey in the morning.

The “Iron butt” award 2

We wanted this to be our last day but we had no idea what awaited us on the road so we added one extra day (Sunday) just in case. To get home we had to do another 750km with a little break in Belgrade, which was 200km away. So we took a little walk and had something to eat in a McDonald´s. We didn´t really take any photos as our minds were already back at home, but then we had to face 3 little complications. First of all, I was running out of petrol and the first petrol station we came across didn´t have any either. I must tell you that this wasn´t some kind of lost petrol station at the end of the world. It was proper highway petrol station on the main road to Hungary. The next one was 50km away so we started to go a bit slower J, just in case.  The second complication came 4km before the Hungarian border. Traffic was building up due to the border checks, and a huge amount of holidaymakers has already started before we reached the MOL petrol station. It was 32 – 34 degrees outside and the moment you stopped you felt you were transported into a sauna. Having filled our tanks with petrol and with a lower adrenalin level, we started to make our way to the front of the queue. Our estimated waiting time was about an hour, the locals were telling us 3-4 hours was more realistic, so we decided to cut the cue and ride the shoulder lane, just to save our mental health. It was a relief just to get out of the petrol station. Just before the border we noticed that the traffic was managed by some traffic policemen. First of all we were worried that we would quite rightfully be told off for our rudeness and lack of patience. In the end we didn´t get told off at all, on the contrary, we were shown to the fastest cue before we boiled alive in our gear. All said and done we were finished with all the border checks in under 30 minutes. The nice policewoman didn´t even want us to take our balaclavas off, and the border control officer just waved his hand at us and that was it.

Last time we were pushing our luck was on the M5 just before Budapest, where we came across an accident and decided to go around it through the shoulder lane. It goes without saying that the whole time we were watching out for rescue vehicles so we could let them pass.

At about 21:30 on the 16^th of August I was finally at home. Our trip started and ended with the “iron butt” award. I didn´t use to write down the exact spending and mileage back then, but I can tell you that we spend around 240 euros for food and accommodation and that we did around 3,280km in 8 days.

Photos were taken by smartphone Sony Xperia Z1 Compact.

The post Milan Dzilsky: Mototrip Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina (2014) appeared first on Cestovateľský blog.

Rozhodnutie na tento rok padlo, ide sa smer Albánsko. Niektorí v mojom okolí na destináciu reagujú rovnako ako pri prvom tripe do Rumunska. Pocit nebezpečia z niektorých krajín v nás stále pretrváva. Klasicky, zbytočne. Ideme nakoniec traja – veríme, že to bude chuťovečka

Cena „oceľového zadku“

Trasa je jasná, čo najrýchlejšie mať nepríjemnú prvú časť – dlhý presun cez krajinu nikdy nekončiacej kukurice – za sebou. Kupujeme dialničné známky a po M1 smer Budapešť a na juh na M5 smer Mohács. Odtiaľ cez chorvátsky Osijek bočnou cestou číslo 7. Je zjavné, že cenu o „oceľový zadok“ na maďarskej diaľnici sme si vyslúžili či poctivo odsedeli všetci traja. Je výhoda mať veľkú motorku, na diaľnici si často sadám na zadné sedadlo a cítim sa chvíľu ako spolujazdec. Už len ten autopilot chýba.

7-čkou sa dostávame na hraničný prechod s Bosnou a Hercegovinou pri Slavonski Samac. Cieľ je dostať sa za deň čo najbližšie k Sarajevu, t.j. okolo 750km. Bližší cieľ je však Zenica (640km), kde ma spolucestujúci kamaráta (Enesa) z práce. Chcú sa vidieť a aj my dvaja súhlasíme. Tých km „v zadku“ za deň vcelku cítiť. A motivácia a vidina večerného programu je jasná. Pivo, jedlo, posteľ. Po chvíli už riešime ubytovanie a plán na večer. Enes nám aktívne pomáha. Ubytovanie je opäť cestovanie v čase – Hotel Internacional, kde kvalita a cena nemajú veľa spoločného. Napriek tomu nie je čo riešiť, je to v centre, motorky parkujeme v podzemnej garáži. A vyrážame smer sprcha a mesto. Enes nás už čaká a je to super zážitok vytiahnuť nás do maličkej rodinnej a ani neviem či to nazvať reštaurácie. Proste 5 plastových stolov a stoličiek. Ale to jedlo je úchvatné, až časom som zistil, že som si to ani neodfotil. Lokálna kokta (niečo ako naša kofola) nás sprevádza odvtedy každú cestu po bývalej Juhoslávii.

S Enesom sme predebatovali celý konflikt počas rozdeľovania Juhoslávie a aj súčasný stav medzi rozvášnenými náboženskými skupinami. Stále totiž počuť o únose a vraždách v danej oblasti a to už je rok 2014. Je zaujímavé počúvať názor človeka, ktorý to zažil, prežil a stále tam žije.

Trošku v roku 1984 a trošku aj v roku 10.000 pred n.l.?

Ráno sa zobúdzame celkom odpočinutí, napriek dlhšiemu večeru a pár pivám. Zažívame ďalšiu lekciu, ako to chodilo v hoteloch tenkrát dávno v časoch, ktoré už málokto pamätá. Čašník je pán a ak nemá zrovna čas, tak tie raňajky môžu a aj budú chvíľu trvať. Po dlhšom čase sa dostávame k objednávke. Káva a aj neskôr objednané presso je tragikomické, ale všetko zvládame s úsmevom. Nie sme žiadni prudiči a dovolenku si nenecháme kaziť, sme predsa nejakí loviči zážitkov. Jediné sučasné v tomto hoteli bol počítač cca z roku 1999 a platba kartou v termináli.

Sadáme na motorky a ideme smer Visoko, starobylé pyramídy o ktorých sa tvrdí, že sú staršie ako tie Egyptské. Ani nie za pol hodinu sme tam. Nájsť ich je trochu „motákovo“. Ale je to nad mestom presne tu. Nedostali sme sa až hore, keďže tam bol zákaz vjazdu a asi 32°C. A to šlapať v moto oblečení naozaj nie je žiadna sláva. Je to proste pekný kopec, zarastený za posledných 12.000 rokov. Výškou 220m predbehne asi o tretinu Cheopsovu pyramídu. V okolí sa našli aj ďalšie pyramídy. Napriek tomu tieto zistenia niektorí vedci stále popierajú.

Sadáme na moto a velíme smer Sarajevo. Motorky nechávame na platenom parkovisku. V mojom prípade aj s menšou dušičkou, nakoľko sa kompletne prezliekame do civilu a moto-oblečenie nechávame na motorkách. Musím uznať, že to dopadlo dobre. Veci tam boli tak ako sme ich nechali, aj s helmami. Za 15 eur za tri motorky veľmi dobrý „deal“. Strávili sme v meste asi 3 hodiny.

Išli sme smer Gazi Husrev – Begiho Mešita. Bola to príjemná prechádzka s ešte príjemnejším obedom v starej časti Sarajeva. Zastavili sme sa aj pri moste, kde spáchali atentát na Františka Ferdinanta d´Este, čoho výsledkom bolo vypuknutie prvej svetovej vojny. Pekne sa v ňom prelína súčasnosť s minulosťou.

Toto mesto má pre mňa asi najväčšiu spomienku – cez prvé zimné olympijské hry, ktoré som ako dieťa vnímal. Zvláštne na mňa zapôsobilo umiestnenie štadiónu. Hneď vedľa cintorína, ako by tí športovci mali byť nejakými odpadlíkmi. Rozmýšľal som nad tým ísť pozrieť aj bobové dráhy, avšak videl som fotky na webe a vyzeralo to naozaj otrasne zanedbalo. Tak sme si ušetrili čas.

Sadli sme na motorky a smer Čiena Hora. Plán bol prejsť  hranicami a nájsť ubytovanie. Do Plužine to bolo asi 122 km, čo nie je žiadna tragédia. Predsa len sme za deň doteraz prešli len nejakých 75 km.

Prejdenie hraníc bolo super. Spomenúť si na to, ako sme pred Schengenom cestovali. Dlhé rady, „usmiaty“ colníci a pasováci. Vzhľadom na to, že je už neskoro poobede, nie je to až taká tragédia. O 19.30 sme boli pri rieke Piva a za chvíľu aj pri Pivskom jazere. Začali sme teda hľadať ubytovanie, čo bola celkom čerešnička. Nakoniec sme našli obyčajnú izbietku s kúpelňou na chodbe. Ale pri cene 30 Eur za troch človek proste nerieši. Vybehli sme si dať večeru do Zvonovo a začali plánovať ďalší deň.

Durmitor náš každodenný…

Ráno sme sa zobudili a pomaly vyrazili, nebolo ani 8.00. Chceli sme si dať raňajky niekde po ceste. Vybrali sme sa teda do Durmitoru. Odbočka vyzerá veľmi nedôveryhodne. Proste do takej diery či jaskyne, kde jedna časť vyzerá zasypano. Ale tá trasa po ceste P14 neskôr je famózna. Najprv sa vyštveráte serpentínkami hore a potom sa ide po náhornej plošine. Ja som mal pocit takého Nórska, čo sa do krajiny a divokosti týka. Je to len 47 km, ale budete asi tiež často zastavovať. Na konci parku bola pekná reštaurácia, kde sme si dali neskoré raňajky resp. takú nejakú desiatu. Domáci pršut do žemle a kávu k tomu o 10,30.

Cez Žbaljak sme pokračovali k rieke Tare a mostu Durdevica. 365 metrov dlhý most postavený v rokoch 1938-1940 v čase juhoslávskeho kráľovstva. V čase keď ho stavali, to bola najväčšia betónová stavba pre účely automobilovej dopravy v Európe. Počas druhej svetovej vojny, čiže iba chvíľu po postavení lokálni partizáni vyhodili do vzduchu stredný oblúk, aby sťažili presun a postup talianskych vojsk. Počas vojny ho mali pod kontrolou práve talianske vojská. Opravili ho veľmi rýchlo po vojne, už v roku 1946. Miesto s pekným výhľadom aj na miestnu atrakciu Zip line ponad kaňon rieky Tary, v tom čase najdlhší na svete.

Po tejto vyhliadke sme si dali smer Mojkovac s plánom skončiť až v Albánsku. Do Albánskeho Kopliku sme to mali asi 177 km a odhadované 3h jazdy. Asi v strede tejto trasy sme sa zastavili v Monastir Morača. Starý kláštor srbskej pravoslávnej cirkvi založený v roku 1252. Krásne upravené okolie. V súčasnosti je kláštor významnou čiernohorskou kultúrnou aj náboženskou pamiatkou. A okupovaná turistami počas celého roka.

A upravili sme kúsok trasu a spravili malú odbočku na Monastir Ostrog. Tento je kúsok mladšia stavba,  „iba“ zo 17 storočia. Je celý zasadený do skaly. Je pútnym miestom mnohých Srbov. Je tam v lete dosť „narváno“ a ľudia stoja v rade aby sa dostali dnu. My sme akurát chytili omšu. Dnu sme sa nedostali a ani nebolo šance sa tam v krátkom čase dostať. A to bolo 18,00 večer. Teplo a „narváno“. Išli sme teda konečne smer náš dnešný cieľ Koplik.

Bolo už večer keď sme dorazili do Kopliku a našli ubytovanie. Názov hotela určite nikomu nič hovoriť nebude nakoľko z neho vypadlo koncové Inn. Hotel Holiday. Po prejdení mestečka na motorkách bolo zjavné, že do mesta nemá význam ani ísť. Ubytovali sme sa a išli dole na večeru a už tradične na lokálne pivo. Ubytovanie bol z kategórie drahších, presne 50 Eur s raňajkami. Pekná izba s klimatizáciou, ktorú nám aj naplno predviedli.

Museli sme ju vypnúť, keďže sme nechceli umrznúť. To sme ešte netušili, že aj v hotelovej reštaurácii sa s ňou budú chcieť pochváliť. Niekedy je také to klasické bez klímy s ventilátorom vhodnejšie. Ráno sme sa totiž všetci zobudili „soplaví“ a kašlavý, nehovoriac o podráždených hrdlách. Mesto Koplik na ubytovanie sme nevybrali náhodou, chceli sme byť čo najbližšie pri Národnom parku Teth. Už doma som plánoval, že doobeda spravíme Teth a potom je tam kúsok ešte jeden okruh.  Však to za deň stihneme.

Tak konečne Albánsko, dočkali sme sa a rovno krst ohňom

Ráno sme sa vybrali z mesta. Po pár zlých odbočeniach sme vonku. Smerujeme do Tethu, na prvý okruh dňa. 140 km (aktuálne už aj google maps prepočítava, že 5 hodín jazdy, pri planovaní v roku 2014  to dal na 1:45). Zjavne sa google poučil z našich dát z telefónu? V jednom z posledných mestečiek pod horami sme sa pre istotu zastavili a kúpili sme pár fľašiek s vodou. Tento krok sme nakoniec zhodnotili ako najlepší a osudový. Predsa len sme plánovali ísť na nejaké dve hodinky jazdy. Teplo bolo celý čas odkedy sme vyštartovali z domu a nechceli sme podceňovať pitný režim.

Prešli sme asi 41 km a dostali sme sa do bodu, kedy sme začali pochybovať. Podotýkam, že som si pozrel pár odporúčaní na túto trasu. Hovorím si, nič sa nedeje, len stavajú novú širšiu cestu, nakoľko sme práve prešli po asi 6 km rozbitej ceste. A naozaj tam boli stavebné mechanizmy, dokonca dole úplne nový asfalt.

Tu sa začala sranda, bolo 11:00. A takýto sme mali odtiaľ výhľad.

Na túto zastávku sme sa dostali po 17 km a hodine aj niečo cesty. Tento úsek naozaj nebola pre nás sranda. Zjazdy po serpentínach dole, častokrát nie šotolina, ale hrubý hlboký štrk. Motorky v tom pekne lietali a my s nimi. Pár krát sme sa vyhýbali autám, raz a možno nie raz prebrzdili zákrutu a skončili spôsobom – zlezte dole z motoriek a poďte mi pomôcť ma vytlačiť (táto verzia už prešla radikálnym preštylizovaním). Motorka smerovala nosom dolu, v štrku a zo svahu a predo mnou už nebolo miesto kam ďalej a vytočiť sa už vôbec nie. Ani bočný stojan sa nedal použiť. No nemusím asi popisovať, že 300 kg „hovado“ (myslím motorku) sám človek hore nevytlačí, nehovoriac už o tom, aby človek súčasne držal balans, ručnú brzdu atď. Aj keď tak teraz uvažujem, možno by to Chuck Norris dal s prstom v nose.

Ďalšia zastávka bola zlomová, povedali sme si, že už to neotočíme a nebudeme sa vracať. Určite už máme najhoršie za sebou a cesta ďalej už vyzerala len ako nejaký Dakarský špeciálik. Už po štarte sme došli na to, že sa musíme vrátiť a tá cesta, na ktorú sme sa pozerali nebola správna. Bola slepá, resp. museli by sme sa prebrodiť riekou na druhú stranu. Pohodlie neoklameš. Nikomu sa nechcelo riskovať a vykúpať sa v riadne studenej horskej riečke, napriek tomu, že vonku bolo 30°C. Pri odbočke na správnu cestu a smer som začal mať pocit akejsi tatranskej magistrály. Chodci a turisti oproti nám, zatiaľ žiadne auto. Po ďalšej hodine jazdy a prejdených 28 km sme došli k peknému mostíku a chlapcom čo si veselo skákali do tejto ľadovej vody.

Brali sme to ako dobrý znak. Navodzoval pocit, že nie sme v úplnej „prdeli“ a žijú tu aj iní ľudia, nie len zblúdení motorkári. Každého, koho sme stretli, sme sa donekonečna pýtali jedinú otázku, či ideme správne na dedinu Kir. Všetci na nás kukali „jak puci“.  Až raz odpovedali inak ako zdvihnutými ramenami.

Po tomto prišla fakt kríza, dostali sme sa až sem. Celých 2300 metrov od mostu. Bod lámania psychických stavov. Každý sme to riešili inak. Až sem sme párkrát dvíhali Paťovu motorku. Pri väčších jamách ak chytil hlavný stojan, vypínalo mu motor = pád. Chalanom som fakt nezávidel. Ivo bez ABS schádzal dosť divoké úseky. Ako spojkovali každý výjazd nakoľko na 2 prevodovom stupni sa to naozaj nedalo (prvýkrát v živote a dúfam, že nie posledný som ocenil enduro prevodovku a krátku 1tku). V tomto bode sme mali za sebou z Kopliku 86 km a bolo 15:39 a asi 35°C. Okrem toho sme si pri pár zjazdoch zákrut radšej pomáhali pridržiavaním motoriek. Okrem nadupaných fit tyčiniek sme toho moc nenaobedovali (nebolo kde). Z tohto bodu sme to mali na najbližší asfalt 28,4 km, ale to sme naozaj vtedy netušili.

Keď sme zbadali oproti idúce nákladné auto, to bolo dobré znamenie. Pritom nás napádalo či sa nedajú motorky naložiť na korbu a čo by nás to asi stálo dopraviť sa takto na najbližší asfalt. O nejakú chvíľu neskôr ma už napádali ešte lepšie zlepšováky/horšie veci. Napr. koľko môže stáť presun vrtuľníkom? To už asi hovorí samo za seba, v akom psychickom rozpoložení sme boli.

Aha náš Kir, skoro som zabudol. Po ďalších 13 km sme to naozaj našli. A bolo to tam, tri staré domčeky a jeden kostol. Z Kiru sme to už mali finálne len 13 km. Táto časť cesty sa už stala takým jemným zlepšením. Stretli sme veľké nákladné auto a aj auto s rehoľnými sestrami, ktoré sa s nami ledva ledva vyhli a myslím, že šuchli kamošovi kufor.

Záver tejto cesty bol famózny. Ukázalo sa, ako sa človeku dokáže skrátiť videnie a myslenie. Situácia, ktorá nastala, je ukážkou slepoty od únavy. Vidím pred sebou Iva, ktorý prešiel vcelku dlhú mláku cez celú šírku cesty a nedalo sa ju obísť. Myšlienkový pochod: už keď som prešiel tých 80 km, týchto 20 metrov musím dať a keď nie, však ma zdvihnú a vytiahnu. Mláku sme k spokojnosti všetci prešli, avšak stále som nechápal, prečo Ivo zastal a usmieva sa . Až keď som ho obehol, dal nohu dole z motorky, zaprel stojan o asfalt mi doplo. Koniec trápeniu sa. Ten asfalt na ktorom som akurát zastal, som vôbec ale vôbec nevidel. Po týchto 80 km som sa zjavne nevedel pozrieť ďalej ako 10 m pred motorku.

Na vysvetlenie situácie pár fotiek a stav lokálnej cesty a pridám aj pár videí. Pre nás, ktorý naozaj enduro nejazdia a už vôbec nie na veľkých motorkách, to bol pekný „záhul“. Doteraz sa na tom smejeme. Vtedy nám do smiechu nebolo ani náhodou 🙂

Po asfalte sme uleteli 15 km do najbližšej reštaurácie rýchlosťou svetla. Aspoň sme to tak vnímali po predošlých kilometroch. Dali si večeru a smiali sa sami sebe.

Večer sme sa ubytovali okolo 21:00 v Bar Restorant Hotel Marina (50 Eur), a začali plánovať okruh na poobedie a jeho presun na zajtrajší deň, predsa len sme flexibilní cestovatelia 🙂

Albánsko, krst ohňom 2 alias upečený zaživa v helme

Raňajky začali pekne, lokálny syr, domáci džem, plynule anglicky rozprávajúci majiteľ a čašník v jednom.

Vydali sme sa teda na plánovanú trasu, pekný okruh okolo jazera Drini späť k horám k Fierze . Nejaký maník to vraj z Tethu prešiel krížom cez hory. Po predošlom dni nám ani len nenapadlo to skúšať. Príjemná cesta, pekné výhľady na hory, kopce a jazero. Avšak ukrutne teplo.

Obed sme si dali v hoteli Alpin. Čo nás zaskočilo bola malá súkromná ZOO majiteľa. Medvede v počte dva ks, srnky a mnoho vecí, čo ešte sme si nevšimli. A neskôr sme šli okolo Albánskej Hoover Dam.

Cesty boli vcelku slušné, trochu poplátané, ale po šotolinovo-kamennom zážitku to bol fantastický pocit jazdiť po takejto krásnej ceste. Okolo 1-2 hodiny poobede začalo byť neznesiteľne teplo. O 14:23 vystúpala teplota na 38°C Tu už nepomáhalo si ani bundu rozopnúť a postaviť sa do stupačiek. Nebolo sa ako chladiť. Často sme stáli, hľadali tiene. V krajine bez stromov to bol vcelku zázrak a skoro pri každom sme zastali a pili a pili a pili. Tentokrát vodu. Ale boli sme ekologický, cik pauzy sa nekonali. Obličky vodu videli asi až večer keď sa schladilo na prijateľných 28-30°C.

Keď sme obišli celé jazero do Kukesu bolo už kúsok pred 6tou. A tak sme to strihli diaľnicou priamo až do prímorského Lezhe.

Pripojenie sa na dialnicu malo príchuť kravy. Prečo kravy? Predstavte si situáciu, že v helme počujete od spolujazdca hlášku „pozor kravy, na dialnici“. Naozaj Vám v prvom momente nezapne, že sa máte vyhýbať naozajstným kravám. Však ste na diaľnici, čo by tam robili? Proste si ju križovali.

Začali sme hľadať ubytovanie. Hlavná sezóna, kto by očakával, že to bude ľahké? Nakoniec sme našli priamo na pláži. Šípky ukazovali smerom, kde sme neverili, že ešte niečo môže byť postavené. Rozbitá prístupová cesta, ale autá tam chodili. Útočiaci psi neboli nič príjemné. Ale ubytovanie bolo nakoniec veľmi fajn, v hoteli či penzióne Brilant. Výborná večera a zaslúžený oddych. Kúpanie sa v mori (tí čo ma poznajú vedia, že to nerobím často a bolo to príjemné,more bolo naozaj teplé a mokré)

Aj lenivosť a únava je súčasťou našich tripov

Ráno sa nám nikomu moc nechcelo na motorky. Tie dva predošlé dni boli dosť únavné. Štartovali sme snáď až okolo 11:00. Vedeli sme, že treba pomaly otáčať smer domov. Na Tiranu ani iné časti Albánska už času nebolo. Vydali sme sa na trasu smerom späť.

Najbližší plán bolo zastaviť večer niekde v Kotorskej zátoke. Ale nechceli sme ísť ani moc rovno, ani moc po pobreží. Po ceste sme pozreli Sveti Stefan, malú dedinku ktorá leží na ostrovčeku spojeného s pevninou iba malým piesočným valom, na ktorom je vybudovaná cesta. Meno dostala podľa kostola, ktorý leží na najvyššom mieste ostrova. A v 60tych rokoch sa stala najvyhľadávanejším a najluxusnejším miestom na dovolenky.

V Budve sme sa vybrali doľava, smer vnútrozemie. Chceli sme to prejsť cez Národný park Lovcen a tak sme to dali na Cetinje. Hlavne do Kotoru sme chceli prísť tými šialenými serpentínami nad ním. Výhľady sú naozaj pekné, z každého miesta na ceste. Do Kotoru sme vchádzali akurát pri schádzajúcom slnku, až sa to ťažko fotilo.

Ubytovanie sme našli v malom apartmánovom domčeku, s pani majiteľkou, ktorá mala nejaké spojenie s SK/CZ. Ráno nám domáca sama od seba ponúkla kávu a čaj 🙂 Ale opäť sa hlavná sezóna odzrkadlila na dlhšom večernom hľadaní. Ubytovanie bolo na skok od mora. Nebol problém sa v prípade chuti a zájmu aj okúpať. Večera v peknom prostredí reštaurácie Stari Mlini. Pre motorkára určite zbytočne romantické miesto 🙂 ale iné sme nenašli.

Durmitor náš každodenný aj na ceste späť a na konci pekná sprcha

Na druhý deň sme sa zhodli, že bude zaujímavé prejsť Durmitor ešte raz. Ale v opačnom smere. A tak vznikla takáto trasa, ktorú sme nakoniec prešli. Nad Risanom sme si to strihli na čo najkľukatejšiu možnú cestu. Bola to naozaj zábava. Miestami skoky ako blázon, niekedy spadnutá jedna strana cesty úplne. Prípadne rastúce kríky a stromčeky z cesty. Autom naozaj neprejazdné. Verím, že to je kombináciou vojny, nakoľko tam boli staré neobývané domy a aj postavenou novou cestou s tunelmi, ktorá mesto spravila prejazdnejším. Motkali sme sa tými cestičkami čo to dalo. Až sme chytili smer Nikšič, mesto okolo ktorého sme už išli. Pred ním je veľmi pekný výhľad na Slansko jezero.

Na obed sme sa zastavili až pred Durmitorom, v malom salaši Jatar. Ktorý je 300-400 m od hlavnej cesty. Ale veľmi príjemná kuchyňa. Pozor na kľučku na WC, skoro som sa tam vymkol 🙂

Durmitor sme prechádzali okolo 13:00 a bola to veľmi príjemná jazda. Hlavne preto, že sme vedeli čo čakať. Viac sme si to užívali, aj keď hrozil dážď a dávali sme nakoniec aj „nepremoky“.

Po prejdení Durmitoru sme sa vrátili k jazeru Piva a videli ho aj za dňa.

Prišli sme k prechodu hraníc. V piatok poobede a takto to vyzeralo. Teplo, ale celkom sa to hýbalo. Spomínate si na takéto rady?  Nám to opäť osviežilo spomienky. Priznám sa, že kontroly boli umravnené a častokrát len formalita. Vzhľadom na to, že bol piatok a išli sme trasou, ktorú sme videli, skôr sme valili späť. Ideálny plán bolo skončiť niekde pred/pri Belehrade a odtiaľ už „na šupu“ domov.

Skončili sme teda niekde tu. Aj keď nedobrovoľne. Prechod hraníc medzi Bosnou a Hercegovinou a Srbskom sme si pomaly ani nevšimli. Išli sme cez prechod Vardiste. Pri snahe dostať sa čo najbližšie k Belehradu sme intenzívne začali sledovať mraky nad nami a ich pohyb. Hovorím chalanom, to nás nedobehne. To som však naozaj nemal hovoriť. Dobehlo nás to rýchlejšie ako by si ktokoľvek pomyslel. Nie však obyčajný dážď, ale rovno smršť. Takú dávku vody som už dávno nezažil. Kým sme sa otočili a vrátili k ubytovaniu, ktoré sme videli kúsok späť a už o ňom uvažovali, boli sme kompletne mokrý. Zaparkovali sme pod prístreškom, z ktorého si počasie spravilo vodopád. Odkvapy síce neboli osadené, ale aj tak by tú vodu nestíhali pobrať. Prešli sme vodopádom pod prístrešok. Do rána sme vyschli a mohli ísť ďalej.

Cena „oceľového zadku 2“

Ideálne sme mali pred sebou posledný deň. Netušili sme aké budú cesty a nechali sme si jeden rezervný deň na návrat (nedeľu). Domov sme to mali v ideálnom prípade 750 km s malou plánovanou zastávkou v Belehrade, ktorý bol 200 km pred nami. Tam sme sa len prešli, dali si „obed“ na McDonalde, nič nefotili, myšlienkami sme už boli doma. Potom však prišli 3 mini komplikácie. Prvý problémik bol, že mi dochádzal benzín a na pumpe, ktorá bola prvá na rane nemali benzín. A to teda nebola žiadna stratená či zablúdená pumpa. Normálna diaľničná na hlavnej trase do Maďarska. A ďalšia bola až o 50 km, takže sme kúsok spomalili 🙂 pre istotu. Druhý šok nastal 4 km pred prechodom s Maďarskom. Zápcha na diaľnici spôsobená hraničnou kontrolou a presunom dovolenky chtivých občanov. Nastala už pred odbočkou na MOL pumpu. Vonku klasika 32-34°C. Akonáhle človek zastaví, je okamžite teleportovaný do virtuálnej sauny. Po úspešnom natankovaní a stlačení adrenalínu na bežnú úroveň sme sa začali predierať vpred. Videli sme to na nejakú tu hodinu. Skúsenosť domácich a ich odhad 3-4 hodiny. Tak sme sa to pustili cez odstavný pruh, v záujme nášho zdravia, sa trocha predbehnúť. Sranda bola sa vôbec vymotať z pumpy. Pred samotnou hranicou sme zbadali, že to trochu organizujú policajti. Prvý stres bol, či nás nezvozia pod čiernu zem za drzosť. Opak bol pravdou, pustili nás dopredu a ukázali ku ktorej kontrole máme prejsť, aby sme sa neuvarili. Prešli sme to všeho všudy za 30 minút. Sympatická policajtka nechcela ani, aby sme si kuklu pod helmou dali dole, colník len mávol rukou a už sme boli vybavení.

Posledná drzovka už bola len pred Budapešťou na M5, kde bola búračka, zápcha slabých 22 km, ktoré sme si decentne odcestovali po odstavnom pruhu, samozrejme kedykoľvek sa uhnúť prípadným záchranným vozidlám, ktoré by mohli eventuálne prichádzať zo zadu.

16.8.2014 večer okolo 21,30 som to zapichol šťastne doma. Trip začal cenou o „oceľový zadok“ a aj skončil.  V tom čase som nerobil dôslednú štatistiku km a nákladov. Jediné čo viem presne, že sme prejedli a prespali 240 Eur za celý trip. Prešli sme cca 3280 km za 8 dní.

Fotografie boli nasnímané smartfónom Sony Xperia Z1 Compact.

The post Milan Dzilsky: mototrip Albánsko, Čierna hora, Bosna a Hercegovina (2014) appeared first on Cestovateľský blog.